Marco MoraglioMarco MoraglioAthlete · Historian · Guide
A climber going up a snow slope on a taut rope, clear sky and a chain of peaks behind.

The goal · 1

Cho Oyu

8,188m

without supplemental oxygen — The sixth highest mountain in the world, between Nepal and Tibet.

Where the project stands: Looking for partners · Alternatively: Manaslu 8,163 m

The story

  1. July 2021Mont Blanc, summit4,810 m
  2. November 2021operation, in Turin
  3. July 2024Peak Lenin, summit7,134 m
  4. todayCho Oyu, without supplemental oxygen8,188 m

I have been coeliac since I was 18 months old. It is the part of me that has been public longest: in 2019 I was the face of the «Io sto con AIC» 5x1000 campaign, and AIC is now a partner of this project.

AIC — Associazione Italiana Celiachia

What I want to do

I want to climb an eight-thousand-metre mountain without supplemental oxygen. My first choice is Cho Oyu, 8,188 metres, the sixth highest mountain in the world; if that turns out not to be workable, Manaslu, 8,163 metres.

I am not a professional mountaineer. I work as a hiking guide, I take people walking in Liguria and around the world, and I have a degree in history. Mountaineering is the part of my life where I go and find out how high I can get, and so far I have got to 7,134 metres.

Why now

In July 2024 I reached the summit of Peak Lenin, 7,134 metres, in Kyrgyzstan. Before that, to acclimatise, Yukhin Peak (5,130 m, on 12 July) and Razdelnaya Peak (6,148 m, on 16 July). I reached the summit of Lenin on the night of 22 July, leaving the last camp at around two in the morning.

Three years earlier, in July 2021, I had stood on the summit of Mont Blanc. Four months later, in November 2021, I had an operation in Turin.

I put those two things next to each other because that is the order they happened in, not for effect.

What I would like to show

That a diagnosis does not have to limit what somebody decides to do. And that some of these conditions are still very little known: if the project makes them familiar to a few thousand more people, it has already worked.

As far as I know, I would be the first person with these three conditions above eight thousand metres, and the first Ligurian on Cho Oyu or Manaslu. I write that carefully because nobody has verified it: it is simply what I have been able to find out.

What I am asking a company for

To be there, and to be there from now. I am not selling the summit: I am selling the road to it, which starts today and exists either way. If I do not get to the top, the story will still have been told for months, in front of real people, with your name next to it.

What I offer in return is written above, with no packages and no price list: every agreement gets built to measure, by talking.

What I have already done

8,188mCho Oyu — the goal — not climbed yet
7,134mPeak Lenin2024
6,148mRazdelnaya Peak2024
5,642mMount Elbrus — north side
5,130mYukhin Peak2024
4,810mMont Blanc2021
  • 7,134 mPeak Lenin2024Summit reached on the night of 22 July 2024, in Kyrgyzstan.
  • 6,148 mRazdelnaya Peak2024
  • 5,642 mMount Elbrus — north sideAn expedition on the north side. Not a summit: the figure is the mountain's height.
  • 5,130 mYukhin Peak2024
  • 4,810 mMont Blanc2021July 2021, four months before the operation.
  • 4,000 mThe Alpine 4,000ersAbout ten ascents. The individual names and years are still to be confirmed.
ECCO QUALI SONO I MIEI PROSSIMI SOGNI E OBIETTIVIPressing play loads the video from YouTube (youtube-nocookie.com).
HO SCALATO IL PEAK LENIN - 7134 MetriPressing play loads the video from YouTube (youtube-nocookie.com).

Press

How far it travels

  • about 50,000AIC members reached by the association's magazineSource: AIC, via Marco Moraglio (Project 8000 deck, slide 7) (2026-09)
  • AIC is a partner of the project

    I was the face of the 2019 «Io sto con AIC» 5x1000 campaign. The association follows the project and writes about it in Celiachia Notizie, the magazine that reaches every member.

  • I work as a guide, so I meet people every day

    This is not only visibility on social media: it is direct contact, inside a group, for hours at a time. People genuinely ask me how a coeliac manages trips like these.

  • The 7,000 is done

    I am not asking anyone to fund an idea. Peak Lenin was climbed, documented and covered by four outlets. The next step has something underneath it.

What a partner gets

  • Visibility from the preparation, not only from the expedition

    Your brand is there from the start: on the site, in the journal, on the material from training days, and at the evenings. It does not wait for departure.

  • Photographs and video on request

    I bring material back from every phase. If you need something specific — a garment, a product, a setting — we agree it before I leave.

  • Talks

    I tell the story in front of people: companies, schools, associations. We build the format together.

  • Team building

    Days outdoors led by me as a guide, for company groups. This is my daily work, not an add-on.

  • Present at every interview and every evening after I get back

    When I come home the project keeps circulating. Your name circulates with it.

The story exists whether or not I reach the summit.

When the visibility starts

  1. Today

    I am looking for the companies that want to be part of it. From here on, everything I do can be told: the site, the journal, the evenings already in the calendar.

    • Visibility from the preparation, not only from the expedition
  2. Preparation

    Months of training, days at altitude, testing kit. It is the longest part of the project and the part that produces the most material: photographs, video, writing.

    • Photographs and video on request
    • Talks
    • Team building
  3. Approach and base camp

    The journey, the approach trek, base camp. From here the updates arrive whenever there is signal.

  4. Summit attempt

    The acclimatisation rotation and the climb. It may work or it may not: the mountain decides.

  5. Coming back, evenings and interviews

    The return, editing the material, the presentation evenings and the interviews. This part happens either way.

    • Present at every interview and every evening after I get back

From the journal

  • Project 8000 starts

    I'm looking for the companies that want to be part of it. From today this site is where the project gets told, from preparation to coming home.

  • Peak Lenin, 7,134 metres

    7,134 m

    Twenty-two days in Kyrgyzstan, three summits, and the top reached on the night of 22 July after leaving the last camp at two in the morning.

  • Mont Blanc, July 2021

    4,810 m

    The first time at 4,810 metres. Four months later I would be in hospital in Turin, but I didn't know that yet.

All journal entries

Let's talk

Write to me

Hello, I'm writing from . I'm . We're interested in .

When: People:

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Hello,

Interest: Project 8000 partnership

We would be glad to set up a call about it.

Let's talk